Section A-B
Section C-D
Section E
Section F-H
Section I-O
Section P-R
Section S-T
Section U-Z
Back to Ford Model T Index
PAINTS
Original Model T Ford paint colors are all but impossible to
duplicate accurately today. The paints used in the very early cars were
varnishes and had a relatively short life. This was also true of the later
enamels and Pyroxylins, although they were a good bit better than the earlier
varnishes.
The original early greens and blues were all but black, and
could easily be taken as black. Consequently, original cars seen today no longer
have the same color they had when they were new. Even today, batches of the same
paint formula will vary in color, and it is certain the variations were even
more pronounced more than sixty years ago.
The paints listed below are acceptable equivalents for the
original colors. The numbers are current replacements for older Ditzler
nitrocellulose lacquer numbers shown in previous lists. The ?DDL?
number is Acrylic Lacquer and the ?DAR? number is Acrylic Enamel.
There is not always a perfect match between the two types of paints so one
should not mix the paint types unless slight differences are acceptable. Some of
the Ditzler numbers are the same for either the lacquer or the enamel. The full
number, of course, would be, say, DDL-71969 (lacquer) or DAR-71969 (enamel) for
Brewster Green. We are told that Ditzler dealers can match DDL colors with DAR
equivalents where there is no DAR number listed here; they have the formulas but
they are not ready-made stock colors.
These paints are by no means the ?only? possibilities, and the author will welcome any
additions, comments, or corrections to this list.
BODY COLORS
(Paint numbers are Ditzler unless noted otherwise)
VARNISHES (Used 1909 to 1925) |
Color |
Modern name |
DDL # |
DAR # |
Red |
Carmine |
71969 |
71969 |
|
Green * |
Brewster Green Medium |
1017 |
44328 |
|
Gray |
Gray |
72092A (Dupont #) |
|
Blue * |
Midnight Blue |
|
10428 |
|
----- |
81501A (Dupont #) |
|
Black |
Black |
9381 |
9000 |
|
Note: The original blue and green were almost black.
Often the color cannot be detected except in bright sunlight, and even then
seeing the ?color? can be difficult. Surviving original cars
substantiate this observation. Red and gray were only used prior to June 1909.
Green was used from early 1909 (before June) through 1910. Blue was used from
1911 to early 1913. Black was the standard color from 1913 until the 1926
models. |
ENAMELS (1926) |
Channel Green |
Use paints listed under Pyroxylin |
|
Windsor Maroon |
Use paints listed under Pyroxylin |
|
PYROXYLIN (Late 1926-1927) |
Commercial Green |
Rock Moss Green |
117 |
44496 |
|
Channel Green |
Green Hillcrest Green |
546 |
45176 |
|
Drake Green |
Vagabond Green |
122 |
44350 |
Sherwin Williams formula |
|
|
L4 E 317 |
5 grams |
|
L4 G 311 |
15 grams |
|
L4 Y 337V |
30 grams |
|
L4 Y 332 |
50 grams |
|
L4 M 318 |
65 grams |
|
L4 Y 303 |
120 grams |
|
L4 B 320 |
235 grams |
|
L4 B 325 |
535 grams |
|
Highland Green |
Dark Green |
42850 |
42850 |
|
Dark Green |
4190A (Dupont #) |
|
Phoenix Brown |
Rosewood Beige Hollywood Tan |
20064 20017 |
----- ----- |
|
Gunmetal Blue |
Gunmetal Blue Niagara Blue |
436 438 |
----- ----- |
|
Moleskin |
Moleskin Brown |
544 |
----- |
|
Royal Maroon |
Ford Maroon |
1011 |
50742 |
|
Fawn Gray |
Granite Gray |
30575 |
----- |
|
WIRE WHEEL COLORS |
Note:Based on letters from the factory to the dealers at the time,
the standard wire wheel color supplied on the cars by the factory was black. The color options
were dealer-installed on an exchange basis. |
ENAMELS (1926) |
Casino Red |
Orange |
1166 |
60449 |
|
Emerald Green |
Apple Green |
519 |
44783 |
|
Straw |
Straw |
526 |
82302 |
|
PYROXYLIN (1926-1927) |
Casino Red |
Orange |
1166 |
60449 |
|
Emerald Green |
Apple Green |
519 |
44783 |
|
Straw |
Straw |
526 |
82302 |
|
Orange |
Orange |
1166 |
60449 |
|
Vermilion |
Vermilion Red |
1412 |
72204 |
|
STRIPING COLORS |
Carmine * |
|
Champagne * |
|
Cream |
Medium Cream |
125 |
----- |
|
Emerald Green |
Apple Green |
519 |
44783 |
|
Orange |
Orange |
1166 |
60449 |
|
Vermilion |
Vermilion Red |
1412 |
72204 |
|
French Gray |
French Gray |
586 |
31759 |
* Carmine and Champagne were used on the black closed cars
during the ?iron? era (1917-1926). The exact color is not known at the
time of this writing. |
PAINTING
Exposed parts of Model T Fords were generally painted the
body color. Early red cars, for example, had red fenders, aprons, hoods, running
boards, axles, and wheels. The same is true of the Brewster Green and blue cars
but here these is some question. Since these greens and blues were extremely
dark, if not black, it is often difficult to determine if the parts were the
body color or actually black paint. The consensus is that the above parts were
originally the body color, not black.
Nuts, bolts, and small assemblies which could be seen easily,
were also painted, even though such parts were installed after the painting
process. Ford had people with paint and brush in hand to ?touch up?
such parts. While there may be exceptions, all exposed pieces were painted, and
this includes the cotter keys in these pieces.
Engines, engine pans, and splash shields (at the side of the
engine) may or may not have been painted. Again, the consensus is that many engines
were not painted but that some were painted in a very thin black during the
Model T era. Late 1926 and 1927 engines were painted Moleskin, at least at the
main factory. Even here, though, there were exceptions. Engine pans follow the
same pattern. The dust shields were probably painted body color in the early
years, and black through 1927. Floor boards were generally not painted but may
have been given a coat of linseed oil or similar.
Indeed, there are no hard and fast rules on what was and what
was not painted on any Model T. There were too many variations.
ENGINE PAINTING
1927
In Walter T. Fishleigh's files in Accession 94 at the Ford
Archives there is a memo dated July 26, 1926 entitled: ?Finish For Model T
Motors?. It lists the finish to be put on each of the exposed parts of the
motor.
Black Pyroxlylin used on:
Transmission Cover
Starter Motor
Generator
Crankcase
Commutator
Black Graphite Paint used on:
Exhaust Manifold and Carburetor
Black Enamel used on:
Breather Cap
Commutator Retainer Spring
Manifold Clamps
Nickel Plate used on:
Cylinder Head Cap Screws
Spark Plug caps and Thumb Nuts
Spark Plug Wire Terminals
Coil Box Terminal Bolts and Nuts
Water Connection Cap Screws
Manifold Cap Screws
Bright Zinc Plate used on:
Cut Out Cover
Moleskin Pyroxylin used on:
Cylinder
Cylinder Head
Generator Bracket
Front Cover
Air Intake and Manifold
(signed) C. W. Avery
?ALL MODEL T'S WERE BLACK?
By Trent Boggess
?They were finished, just like all coaches were finished, and it took a long time
to complete it.? -J. L. McCloud, Reminiscences, p.25
Most Model T's were black. Not all, just most. The early 1909
models were red and gray, but in the middle of 1909 this gave way to a dark
green. During December 1910 and January, 1911, the dark green in turn was
changed to a dark, almost black, midnight blue. Finally, in late 1914 to early
1915 the blues were replaced with just plain black on the open cars. From this
point until the introduction of the ?Improved Models? which appeared
in August 1925, black was the standard color1. Roughly 11,500,000 cars were
produced during this time period and even after the introduction of the Improved
Models, many of whose bodies were painted in green and maroon, a substantial
portions of the cars, and even whole cars, continued to be painted black.
Although there is little about the color of Model T's to
argue over, there is still a great deal to be said about the finish of a Model
T. That is, what type of paint was used and how was it applied. Very few cars
survive with their original finishes. Most have been repainted one or more times
during their lives, usually with the improved paints and painting techniques
that have been developed over the last 70 years. To help those of us who have
never seen a brand new Model T understand what their original finishes looked
like, this article will look into the different materials and the methods used
to paint the various parts of a Model T black.
There is reason to believe that Model T's painted with modern
paints using modern application techniques may look somewhat differently than
when those cars originally left the factory. For one thing, the materials used
to paint cars today have very little in common with the materials that were used
by the Ford Motor Company during the black era. Technological advances in the
paint industry have made using the old paints impractical, while environmental
concerns make their use undesirable. The methods of applying the paints have
also changed. Paint spraying and powder coating techniques, technologies that
are still evolving today, have replaced the Ford factory methods of dipping,
brushing or flowing on the coats of paint.
In addition, this investigation of Model T paints and
painting techniques provides the opportunity to examine two other issues. First,
it will review one of the long-standing views regarding the reason why Ford
standardized on the color black. Second, it will provide some insight into the
reasons for the changes in Model T body construction that occurred in 1922 and
again in 1925.
Since this investigation is likely to stir up some
controversy over some long held opinions relating to the painting of Model T's,
it is appropriate to begin by describing the sources for the information on
which the investigation and this article are based. Essentially the information
comes from two sources: the Research Center at the Henry Ford Museum and
Greenfield Village and several technical publications. The Research Center is
the depository for many of the engineering documents relating to the production
of the Model T. These documents, once a part of the archives of the Ford Motor
Company, are found in five major accessions. Accession #1003 contains the
?Obsolete Materials Specifications? sheets. Beginning about 1916, the
Ford Motor Company began writing detailed specifications for the materials that
were used in building Model T's including the paints. These material
specification sheets helped insure consistency in the materials supplied by
Ford's vendors and tended to promote price competition among the vendors. Today,
the sheets tell us what the chemical composition of the paints was, who were the
principle suppliers and, to a lesser extent, which components of the Model T
were to be painted with a specific paint.
Accession #166 contains many of the process sheets for the
Model T. The process sheet is an engineering document which describes how to
produce or assemble a Model T part or assembly. Since painting a part or
assembly is a part of the assembly process, the process sheet will frequently
tell whether or not a part was painted and what it was painted with.
Accession #1701 is one of the largest in the Research
Center's collections. It includes microfilms of the drawings for nearly all the
parts ever used (or considered for use) on a Model T. It also includes
microfilms of the Record of Change cards or ?Releases? for nearly
every Model T part. These documents tell the story of how a Model T part changed
over the years by specifying the date, nature and authority for the change and
often includes what material the part was to be painted with.
Accession 125 contains the Ford Motor Company?s monthly
Cost Books for the Model T. Beginning in late 1913 the Company began keeping
highly detailed accounts of the costs of producing the Model T. The time period
covered by these books extends from December 1913 to July 1926, with some gaps
in between where the Cost Books for several months apparently have been lost. In
addition to the cost of the complete car, these books list the cost of every
part and every assembly operation. When a part or assembly was to be painted,
these books will frequently identify the painting materials used on that piece
of the Model T right down to the sandpaper and solvents.
Finally, Accession #65 contains several reminiscences by
Model T era employees of the Ford Motor Company, one of whom was J. L. McCloud.
The Ford Motor Company hired McCloud in 1915 as it's first college-trained
chemist. In the late teens and early twenties he was responsible for insuring
that the paints used were consistent in quality and performance. In his Reminiscences,
McCloud makes many comments about Model T paints and their application based on
his first-hand experience.
In addition to the information found at the Research Center,
several technical books and articles on paints were consulted. These sources
include: Dick's Encyclopedia of Practical Receipts and Processes.
This book describes the methods of making Japan black and paints in general
during the late 19th century. The 1925 standard reference work on paints and
their applications was Maximilian Toch's The Chemistry and Technology of
Paints. The Ford Motor Company engineers frequently cited this book in its
material specification as a source of information about paints. The
Technology of Paints, Varnishes and Lacquers edited by Charles R. Martens
describes the history and evolution of paints, the theory of film formation and
descriptions of different types of paints. The DuPont Refinishing Handbook
provides an excellent historical background on paints and includes a superb
glossary on painting terms. Finally, the standard reference work on how the
Model T was manufactured during 1914-1915 is Arnold and Faurote's The Ford
Methods and the Ford Shops. This book provides detailed descriptions and
photographs of the various painting processes used in the Ford factory during
the mid-teens to early 1920?s.
The scope of this article is limited to the paints and
techniques used during the years from 1915 to 1925. There are a number of
reasons for this limitation. First, it now appears that the black paint era of
the Model T began later than has previously been thought. The Cost Books
indicate clearly that through at least September 1914 Ford was still painting
touring car bodies blue. The cost books indicate that different paints were used
in October, November and early December 1914, but do not indicate exactly what
color they were. No touring car bodies were painted and trimmed at the Ford
factory from late December 1914 until very late in January 1915. Once touring
car body painting resumed in 1915, the Cost Book?s descriptions of the paints
match those used through the early 1920?s. Thus good evidence that black
topcoats were being used on touring car bodies does not appear until early in
1915.
Second, good, reliable information on the composition of
Model T paints and on what parts these paints were used on does not begin until
1915. The earliest material specification sheets for paints are dated 1916. The
Cost Books indicate that virtually all of these 1916 paints were in use during
February 1915. While there is evidence that many (though not all) of the
materials and techniques described in this article were employed earlier, some
as early as 1912, Ford factory paint documents dated before 1915 are scarce
Third, the reintroduction of colors to the Model T in
mid-1925 and the use of pyroxlin paints beginning in mid-1926 defines an
entirely different era in Model T production. Rightfully this should be the
subject of a different article. Similarly, engine painting is a highly
controversial yet important enough subject to warrant its own discussion at a
later date.
THE PAINTS
A paint is a fluid material which when spread thinly over a
surface will form a solid, adhesive film over the surface. It serves two
important purposes: protection and decoration. Without paint, objects made of
iron or steel will soon start to rust and deteriorate. The paint protects the
underlying surface from the effects of water and sunlight, extending its useful
life. Paint also serves for decorating an object, making its appearance more
pleasing and attractive. Paints have been used for thousands of years. For most
of that time, the final user manufactured the paint, because shelf or storage
life of the paints was short. Commercially prepared paints began to appear after
1865 when New England paint makers discovered that the addition of silicate of
soda to linseed oil based paints dramatically extended the shelf life of the
paint. This made the preparation and marketing of mixed paint in small packages
feasible and marks the beginning of the commercial paint industry in America.
Paint is applied as a liquid, but to serve its dual purposes,
it must be converted into a solid. This process is called film formation. For
most paints, this process begins when the material is exposed to the air. Some
modern paints, which are composed of two separate parts, are an exception to
this. The two parts are mixed together immediately before application and once
mixed the film formation process begins and continues even in the absence of
air.
The paints available before the introduction of
nitrocellulose lacquers in 1924 bear little resemblance to the materials
purchased today in hardware and auto supply stores. Model T's were painted with
color varnishes, and while the term 'enamel' is frequently encountered, they are
not enamels in the modern usage of the term. Color varnish paints were based on
drying oils, such as linseed and china wood oils, that are derived from
vegetable sources. When exposed to the air, these oils would capture and combine
with oxygen, forming a dry, hard, resinous material.
By themselves, these oils take a very long time to dry. This
is partly due to the initial formation of the film at the surface between the
oil and the atmosphere. The film inhibits access of the paint below the surface
to the oxygen needed for the conversion of the oils into the hard, resinous
material. Long ago it was learned that by adding certain chemical metallic
compounds to the oils, known as dryers, the conversion process could be sped up
and enhanced. These compounds catalyze the drying process, increasing the rate
of absorption of oxygen and promoting the drying of the lower layers of the oil.
During the Model T era, various metallic compounds were used as dryers,
including cobalt, lead, manganese, calcium, zinc and iron. Drying oils, while
frequently having a brownish tint, are essentially transparent. As such, paints
based on them would have little decorative purpose. However, other materials can
be added to the oils and dryers, to give color to the paints. These materials
are known as pigments, and they frequently do more than just give color to the
paint. Depending on the shape of the pigment's molecules, they may actually
provide greater strength to the paint and adhesion to the surface, much the way
steel rods and wire mesh are used to reinforce and strengthen concrete
structures.
Paints need to be fairly fluid in order to be spread evenly
across the surface, but once applied, they must stay put. That is, the viscosity
of the paint must increase after it has been applied to reduce running and
sagging. This can be achieved by adding rapidly evaporating solvents to the
mixture. These solvents are known as thinners. They enhance the flow-out
characteristics of the paint when first applied, but rapidly evaporate, reducing
the viscosity and tendency of the paint to run during the drying process.
Temperature can also have an important effect on the drying
of color varnish paints. Frequently, the painted object can be baked in an oven
to reduce the drying time to one hour or less. The composition of the paint, in
terms of its pigments, dryers and thinners must be adjusted for oven drying in
order to prevent cracking or checking of the finish.
A large number of different paints were used on Model T's
during the black era. Over thirty different Ford Motor Company specifications
for black paint have been identified. (See Appendix A for a list of these
paints.) They vary in terms of their chemical composition, the amount of
thinners used, the pigments used and in several other respects. For the purposes
of discussion, all of these paints can be divided into two categories: oven
drying paints and air drying paints. Oven drying paints were used on all-metal
parts that could withstand the high temperatures of the baking ovens, such as
fenders, hoods and similar parts. Air drying paints were used on dashes and
bodies, where the wood contained in these parts would not withstand the high
temperatures required to bake the oven drying paints.
The basic oven drying paint for the Model T was what
historical sources call ?Japan Black?. Why the term ?Japan Black? was used to
describe the paint is somewhat obscure. Before 1900 ?Japanning? was
known as a particular type of varnishing that was practiced by the Japanese. It
was unique in that after the application of each coat of color varnish, the
object was placed in an oven or stove and baked at as high a temperature as
possible without damaging the object. To an extent, painting Model T fenders,
hoods, and other all metal parts resembles ?Japanning? in that after
the film of paint was applied the part was baked for up to an hour at a
temperature of about 400 degrees.
The term ?japan? has second connotation in the
painting industry. A particular combination of chemical compounds is known as
?Japan Dryers?. When added to vegetable drying oils, as described previously,
they reduce the time it takes for the paint to dry. Since ?Japan Dryers? were
used in making some Model T paints, this too may partly account for the use of
the term.
Ford used two japan black paints. The ?First Coat Black
Elastic Japan? was given the factory specification number F-101 (M-101
after March 15, 1922) and F-102 (M-102 after March 15, 1922) was the factory
specification number for ?Finish Coat Elastic Black Japan?. Both
paints were very similar in composition. They consisted of about 10% linseed oil
and dryers (lead and iron dryers were popular in oven baked paints), 55%
thinners (mineral spirits or petroleum naphtha), and 25 - 35% Asphaltum. F-101
also contained 1 - 3% carbon black as a pigment, while the finish coat, F-102
contained none.
The surprising and interesting element in these paints is the
asphaltum or asphalt. Asphalts are dark film-forming compounds that were used in
paints noted for their resistance to water and dampness. The Ford material
specification sheets usually specify that the asphalt used was Gilsonite. This
is a natural, hard, brittle resin that is mined in the western United States as
well in other places around the world. It was used in the manufacture of many
products during the 1920's including paints, varnishes, oils, and shellacs. When
compounded with other asphalts and rubber it was made into automobile tires,
phonograph records, waterproofing and insulating materials. When used in paints
Gilsonite must be melted at 270 - 400 degrees before it is added to the linseed
oil and dryers. As a part of the paint, the Gilsonite is low in cost, acts as a
hardening agent for the oils, and results in a high-gloss dark-colored surface.
It also tends to increase the plasticity of the paint, making it less brittle,
more flexible and able to withstand the vibration of fenders, hoods and shields
without cracking or pealing./
There appear to be several good reasons for the choice of
black as the color of the paint. First, black color varnish paints tended to be
more durable than lighter colored paints. Authorities on paint in the 1920's
noted that black paint tended to last longer than paints with lighter colored
pigments. Second, as mentioned above, the addition of Gilsonite improved the
damp resisting properties and the final gloss of the paint, but also resulted in
a very dark colored paint. The range of colors that asphaltum paints can have is
quite limited. The dark color of the Gilsonite limits the color of the final
paint to dark shades of maroon, blue, green or black. Cost may also have been a
factor. The carbon black pigment used in these paints is probably the least
expensive pigment available; almost any other pigment is more expensive than
carbon black. One often cited reason for the use of Japan black on the Model T
was that it allegedly dried faster than any other paint. However, there is no
evidence in either the Ford engineering records or the contemporary literature
on paint, to indicate that that was the case. The drying time of oven baking
Japan black is no different from the drying time of other colored oven baking
paints of the period. In short, Model T's were not painted black because black
dried faster. Black was chosen because it was cheap and it was very durable. In
fact, both F-101 and F-102 (which later were redesignated as M-101 and M-102)
worked so well that the Ford Motor Company continued to used these same paints
to finish fenders, running boards and shields well into the V-8 era.
As mentioned above, the black elastic Japan paints were
designed as oven drying paints. The specifications called for drying in an oven
at 400 degrees for one hour. Not only did oven baking result in a fast drying
time for the paint, it also helped to minimize the surface preparation of the
metal part. All that was required was to wipe the part with turpentine to remove
any oils or grease left on the part during the manufacturing process. Anything
else would tend to become amalgamated with the oils and asphalt in the paint
during the oven baking process. Thus the use of this paint was also cheap in the
sense that very little labor was required for paint preparation. F-101 and F-102
were some of the most commonly used paints on a Model T. Some idea of the extent
to which these paints were used can be found in Appendix C which lists all the
parts on a 1924 touring car that the factory specified were to be painted with
Black Elastic Japan paints.
Wood Model T parts were painted with an entirely different
paint. Unlike fenders and hoods which could withstand oven baking temperatures
of 400 to 450 degrees, wood dashes, wood wheels and even bodies, which had quite
a bit of wood reinforcement in them until 1925, could not stand such high
temperatures. So these parts were painted with multiple coats of air drying
color varnish.
Air drying color varnishes differ from their oven drying
counterparts in several respects. While they were still based on linseed oil,
asphaltum was omitted and instead rosin was combined with the oil. Rosin is
derived from the distillation of oleoresin from pine trees. When cold, the rosin
is a brittle, solid material. The rosin must be heated before it can be combined
with the drying oils to form the paint. The inclusion of rosin in the paint
tends to retard gelling and results in a relatively quick drying varnish.
The oil and rosin gums in the air drying paints made up 44 -
60% of the paint. These paints frequently used lead and manganese as dryers,
which constituted about 1 - 2% of the paint. Thinners were made from a
combination of turpentine and petroleum naphtha and accounted for 39 - 52%.
Carbon or lamp black was frequently used as pigments, making up from a trace to
up to 33% of the paint. All of these paints required 24 hours to dry at a
temperature of 80 degrees.
Application of the Paints
Spray guns for the application paint were not developed until
the early 1920's. Credit for their development belongs largely to the De Vilbiss
Company. Prior to that time Model T parts were painted using brushing, dipping
or flowing methods.
Many Model T parts were painted with a brush. One of the
largest components that was brush painted was the front axle assembly. At the
end of the front axle assembly line the last four operations consisted of 1)
paint with F-105 First Coat Brushing Black Japan by two men; 2) bake in oven; 3)
paint with F-106 Second Coat Brushing Black Japan by two more men; and 4) bake
in oven. Brushing was also used to touch up spots between coats on the bodies
and was used on the final assembly line to paint the nuts, bolts, washers and
cotter pins used to assembly the chassis.
Dipping was another painting processes that was frequently
used in the Ford factory during the Model T era. Fenders, hoods, running boards,
running board shields, steering column tubes, coil boxes and windshields were
all painted using the dipping process. The dipping of fenders in glossy black
paint and baking them in special drying ovens was practiced in the Ford factory
by 1912 and may have begun even earlier. In the teens automatic dip tanks were
used so that the fenders were carried on a conveyor through the dip tank and
then through an oven. In order to conserve factory floor space, the fenders were
dip painted on the top floor of the Highland Park factory and the conveyor
carried the fenders up to the roof where the baking ovens were located.
The rear axle assembly was one of the largest components of a
Model T that was dip painted. As the individual component assemblies of the rear
axle (rear axle housings, torque tube and radius rods) were completed they were
individually painted. When the entire rear axle assembly was completed, it was
painted a second time in a novel way. The axle assembly was hung on a conveyor
and carried up over a tank filled with paint. At this point, a machine
automatically placed caps over the ends of the axle, and the tank was raised six
feet, completely immersing the rear axle in the paint, before returning to its
original position. After painting, the axle was carried through a baking oven to
dry.
Another interesting dip painting operation was the painting
of wood wheels. The first coat applied was F-108 Black Wheel Surfacer. This
paint was primarily made up of pigment (52-54%), with the oil, gum and metallic
dryer representing 12-14% of the paint, and a thinner of mineral spirits which
accounted for 32-34% of the paint. Unpainted wheels were mounted horizontally on
a vertical spindle above a circular vat partially filled with paint. The vat was
raised, immersing the wheel in the paint and then partway lowered. The wheel was
then spun at 540 to 720 rpm for about a minute while still within the vat but
above the surface level of the paint. After spinning the paint was considered to
be dry enough that the wheel could be handled and it was placed in a drying room
for the next 24 hours. The subsequent two coats of paint were applied in a
similar manner. The second coat was F-159 Black Wheel Color Varnish. This was
followed by F-404 Finish Coat on Wheels. F-404 could be described as a nearly
clear topcoat varnish. It contained only enough pigment to give it a dark tint.
This painting process resulted in wheels that were a deep, gloss black color.
A final example of using dipping to paint a Model T part was
the crankcase. While dip painting the crankcase assembly may not in itself be
remarkable, the paint that was used is. This paint was F-142 Black Slush Paint.
It was probably the fastest air drying paint used in the Ford Motor Company, and
it certainly was the simplest in composition. It was made from 50% Gilsonite and
50% petroleum spirits (paint thinner). Crankcases were dipped in this material
and would air dry in an hour or less. Parts painted with F-142 would have
appeared to be ?dense black? in color, but probably not very glossy or
shiny.
Painting Model T bodies was one of the most complex and
time-consuming processes in the Ford factory. From a chronological standpoint,
it was also one of the last painting operations to be undertaken by the Ford
Motor Company. The Cost Book for December 1913 contains the interesting note
?We are using only about 5% of Touring Car Bodies purchased in the white
which we trim and paint ourselves. We are trimming and painting none of the
Torpedo Car Bodies.? This indicates that the Ford Motor Company had just
begun the painting and upholstering of bodies in its own factory, and that 95%
or more of the bodies used on the Model T were still being delivered from the
body supplier to the Ford Motor Company completely painted and upholstered. Ford
continued to paint and trim only 5% of its touring car bodies through April
1914. Painting and trimming operations were expanded in to 10% of Ford?s total
touring car body requirements in May 1914. Production of painted and trimmed
bodies continued to rise so that by October 1914, Ford was trimming and painting
40% of its touring car body requirements. The point at which Ford was painting
and trimming all of its touring car bodies is not known since the Cost Books no
longer state this statistic after October 1914. Painting and trimming of torpedo
(roadster) bodies in the Ford factories did not begin until September 1915.
Through September 1914 the Cost books indicate that the final color coat on
touring car bodies was F-115 Spraying Blue. The use of black color coats on
touring car bodies does not appear until the February 1915 Cost Book.
From 1915 to 1922 bodies were painted with four coats of air
drying color varnish. Bodies arrived at the painting department with the wood
and steel bare of any finish. After a quick cleaning, the first coat of paint
was applied. This was designated as F-111 Red Body Prime. This paint used a
pigment that was a mixture of carbon or lamp black and Venetian Red (30% of
which was iron), so it may have appeared more of a brown color than red. Arnold
and Faurote reported that it was applied with an ?atomizer? at 80
pounds air pressure as early as 1915. After inspection, the freshly painted body
was stacked to dry for 24 hours. After drying, the body was sanded before its
first coat of color.
The color coats were applied using a process called flow
painting. J. L. McCloud in his ?Reminiscences? described it this way:
Instead of being applied with a brush, a flood of paint
was squirted on the automobile bodies out of these flow pipes. It was more or
less run on... The paint was contained in an overhead tank ... and it came down
in a pipe and came out in the form of slow streams from a comb-like end on the
pipe... That was held up alongside of the body and drawn along the body as the
body moved along on a conveyor. In that way it was flooded with paint, and the
paint ran off and was returned to the tank and reused in that way.
This first color coat, F-160, was composed of 4-9% oils and
gums (including rosin), 50-52% thinner which was a combination of naphtha and
turpentine, and 39-47% pigment. It wasn't quite black. ?The black that was
used was, in fact substantially fortified with a very dark blue, so as to make
it a truer black instead of tending toward a yellowish black, which you would
get unless you didn't put the bluing in the color.? The pigment was made up
of Drop Black, Prussian Blue and Ultra Marine Blue. After the first coat was
flowed on, the body was removed from the conveyor and stacked to dry for another
24 hours.
When the first color coat had dried, the body was returned to
the conveyor and prepared for its second coat by ?mossing.? This meant
that it was rubbed with curled hair to remove any dust that had fallen on the
paint while it was drying. Then a coat of F-162 Black Rubbing Color Varnish was
flowed on. Then body was removed from the conveyor, stacked and allowed to dry
for another 24 hours.
After the second coat of F-162 Black Rubbing varnish had
dried, the bodies were again placed on a conveyor and the paint was rubbed down
with pumice and water to a smooth surface. When this was completed the bodies
were upholstered. After upholstering, the bodies were cleaned inside and out in
preparation for the final coat of paint. For the final coat a clear body
varnish, F-751, was used. This varnish was made up of 38-48% Naphtha and
Turpentine thinners, 44% oils and dryers and 18% gums including rosin. It had no
pigment. Like the previous coats, it was flowed on, and after painting any runs
or sags were touched up by hand with a brush. After this final coat of varnish,
the body was once again stacked for 24 hours to dry. McCloud said, ?It took
days to really dry the paint finish on a Model T... The body plants had a lot of
bodies in them at temperatures just slightly above room temperature.? One
of the reasons the Ford Motor Company built the four big six story buildings
that border Manchester Avenue at its Highland Park plant in Detroit was to
provide enough room for all the bodies to dry. By 1916 Ford production required
2000 bodies a day. Since each body required four coats of paint to finish, room
may have been needed for as many as 8,000 bodies at a time.
Never-the-less, the final finish was quite good. McCloud also
says that flow paintings ?...had the practical equivalent of dipping the
automobile body. It was very successful. It gave a quite nice quality paint
job...? The process did have one problem.
?The only trouble is that it tapers. The top of the
panel, or whatever you're painting, gets thin and the paint at the same time
gets thick at the bottom. The big problem in making a flow-coat or dip-coat
paint was to make one that will not taper too damn much.?
The effect of tapering is quite evident in Model T's that
survive with their original paint jobs. Paint near the top of the bodies will
show more deterioration than near the bottom because it was thinner at the top
than at the bottom. In addition, paint on the body will generally be in poorer
condition than that on the fenders and hood because the air drying black color
varnishes are not as durable as the oven baking black Japan paint.
While touring and roadster bodies were completely painted
using the flow method, closed car bodies used a combination of flow and brush.
As late as 1922, the Ford production department required branches to flow paint
bodies below the belt line molding, but apply the paint by brush above the belt
line.
As the production of Model T's continued to rise during the
early 1920's body painting was clearly becoming a bottleneck. It appears that
the Ford engineers followed two strategies to speed up the painting of Model T
bodies. The first of these strategies was to adopt faster drying paints. During
1922 a body baking paints was developed and employed. The painting of a newly
assembled touring car body began by slushing a coat of M-142 (the same paint as
used on crankcases) on the heel boards, toe board, sills and bottom of rear
seat. The body was then dry sanded, blown out with air, and wiped off with a
tack cloth before applying its first coat of paint, maroon primer M-161. After
flowing on the primer the body was baked in an oven at 150 to 160 degrees for
about three hours.
When the body emerged from the paint oven the upholstery was
installed, the body was blown out again with air, and two covers were installed
to keep the upholstery clean during the final painting operations. Two coats of
color varnish were flowed on. Designated M-165, this paint was 3.25-3.75% carbon
black pigment, 55-57% thinner made from petroleum spirits and turpentine, and
43-45% oils, resins and dryers. Cobalt resinate was used as the metallic drier.
This black paint was designed to bake to a hard surface in 2-1/2 hours at a
temperature of 150 to 169 degrees.
After two coats of M-165, the body was ready for its final
coat of finishing varnish. In a manner similar to the air drying paints used in
previous years, this final coat was a clear finishing varnish that was
designated as M-403 Floco Finishing Varnish. It consisted of a
naphtha-turpentine thinner, a trace of carbon black pigment, lead and manganese
dryers, and a combination of linseed oil, china wood oil, #2 Kauri Gum and ester
gum. Like M-165, M-403 would also force dry in 2-12 hours at 145 degrees.
While low bake enamels were one approach to eliminating the
body-painting bottleneck, the Ford Motor Company also followed another. It was a
well-known fact in the automobile industry during the early 1920?s that the
Dodge Brothers Company was able to use black Japan varnishes on their automobile
bodies ?because Dodge didn't use much wood in them?. The low wood
content permitted Dodge to bake the paint on their bodies the way Ford baked the
paint on Model T fenders. Ford decided to follow Dodge's example. Beginning with
the redesign of the touring and roadster bodies in 1922, the wood content Ford
bodies began to decline. By the time the Improved Models were introduced in
mid-1925, the structural wood content of the touring, roadster, coupe and tudor
sedan bodies (with the exception of the top framing on the closed cars and the
seat frames of all models - which would have been added after the body was
painted) had completely disappeared. Thus like Dodge, these Model T bodies could
be painted with Japan type oven drying paints.
New baking paints were developed for the new all steel
bodies. Using the new paints, bodies could be finished with only two coats.
Beginning in August 1925, touring and roadster bodies were painted with one coat
of M-114 First Coat Low Bake Enamel and one coat of M-115 Finish Coat Low Bake
Enamel. These paints were intended to bake to a dry film in one hour at a
temperature of 350 degrees. M-114 consisted of 2% carbon black pigment, 36-38%
drying oils, 9-11% resins, 2% metallic drier and 51-53% mineral spirits. M-115,
the finish coat contained 8-10% asphaltum, 9-11% resins, 37-39% drying oils, 4%
turpentine and 40% mineral spirits. The asphaltum gave this paint a jet-black
color.
Like the paints used from 1914 to early 1922, the low bake
enamels were applied to Model T bodies by flowing. In fact, flow painting of
Model T bodies continued until 1926 and the introduction of pyroxylin
(nitrocellulose lacquer) paints.
The Improved Ford Models introduced in August 1925 also
reintroduced colors to the Ford line. Factory literature states that closed cars
were available in either Channel Green (M-392) or Winsor Maroon (M-393). While
the neither the material specifications or the formulas for either of these
paints has as yet been located, General Letters from the factory indicated that
these paints were also color varnishes. It is likely that they did contain
asphaltum, which is probably why the new colors were limited to dark shades of
green and maroon. The lighter colors such as M-635 Fawn Gray or M-634 Phoenix
Brown did not become available until after Ford adopted the used of pyroxylin
lacquers for open and closed car body painting in August 1926.
One final point about painting Model T?s. Factory records
indicate that not every part on a Model T was painted. Some were left
intentionally unpainted. In a letter to its assembly branches the Ford Motor
Company wrote:
Effective immediately, all branches painting that part
of steering post which is exposed under the hood, will discontinue same. Our
reason for not desiring to paint this portion of the steering gear post is that
when painted the quality of the steel used in these posts is not visible and the
outstanding appearance of strength is covered up.
Apparently these instructions did not go over well with all
the branches. Somewhat later the Stock Superintendent at the San Francisco
assembly plant, H. J. Rudige, wrote to the Production Department at Highland
Park concerning leaving the steering posts unpainted.
In checking over cars in the territory, we find that
cars that have been out any length of time become very rusty and very dirty, and
the quality of material does not show.
Due to this, do you not think it is advisable to white
shellac or apply the white coat of Pyroxylin on the lover part of the steering
column so as to keep this material in A1 condition at all times and also
assuring the public just what is assembled in the steering post.
While Mr. Rudige?s memo has survived, complete with hand
written notes from no less than five different executives in Ford?s Production
Department (a clear example of passing the buck if ever there was one), the
response to his request has been lost with time.
CONCLUSIONS
There are four main conclusions to be drawn from this
investigation. First, the paints used on Model T's during the black era years of
1914 to 1925 were really color varnishes. These types of paint bear little
resemblance to the modern automotive finishes used today when restoring a Model
T.
Second, over 30 different types of black paint were used at
the same time to paint Model T's. The different types of paint vary according to
the means of drying them (air versus oven drying) and were also formulated to
satisfy the different means of applying the paint to the different parts.
Third, Model T's during the black era were painted using the
techniques of brushing, dipping or flowing the paint on. Paint spraying
equipment for finishes did not come into widespread used in the Ford factories
until 1926.
Fourth, the color black was chosen because it was cheap and
it was durable. Black paints, especially those containing asphaltum, were noted
for exhibiting better damp proofing properties than other colors during this
period. The claim that black was chosen because it dried faster than any other
color is not supported by the Ford engineering documents, the contemporary
literature, nor by the first hand accounts of Ford Motor Company employees.
The Model T was a most practical car, and no doubt Henry Ford
was convinced that black was simply the most practical color for the job.
List of the factory paints used by the Ford Motor Company: 1913 - 1925
Ford # |
Name |
Purpose |
Type |
F-101 |
First Coat Black Elastic Japan |
Prime coat on Fenders, hoods, etc. |
Oven |
F-102 |
Second Coat Black Elastic Japan |
Finish Coat on Fenders, hoods, etc. |
Oven |
F-105 |
First Coat Brushing Black Japan |
Front Axles |
Oven |
F-106 |
Second Coat Brushing Black Japan |
Front Axles |
Oven |
F-108 |
First Coat Black Wheel Surfacer |
Wheels |
Air |
F-111 |
Red Body Prime |
Bodies |
Air |
M-111 |
Quick Drying Black Touch Up |
General Purpose Repair Work |
Air |
M-114 |
First Coat Low Bake Enamel |
Touring and Roadster Bodies |
Force Dry |
M-115 |
Second Coat Low Bake Enamel |
Touring and Roadster Bodies |
Force Dry |
M-117 |
Carburetor Lacquer (Black) |
Carburetors |
Air |
M-121 |
Repair Enamel (Low Bake) |
Repair low bake enamel finishes |
Force Dry |
F-122 |
Radiator Black |
Radiators |
Air |
M-124 |
Empire Gray Metal Primer |
Touring and Roadster Bodies |
Force Dry |
M-125 |
Empire Gray Color Varnish |
Touring and Roadster Bodies |
Force Dry |
M-132 |
Black Asphaltum |
Wood Battery Boxes |
Air |
M-140 |
Black Graphite Paint (To withstand 600 degrees) |
Exhaust Pipes |
Air |
M-142 |
Black Wood Slushing Primer |
Crankcases and inside of bodies |
Air |
M-144 |
Black Dull Gloss (Fordtone) |
Truck cabs and bodies |
Force Dry |
M-151 |
High Gloss Black Lamp Enamel |
Lamps and accessories |
Oven |
F-152 |
Windshield Baking Japan |
Windshields, coil boxes, bow sockets |
Oven |
F-159 |
Black Wheel Color Varnish |
Second Coat on Wheels |
Air |
F-160 |
Second Coat Black Ground |
Second coat on bodies |
Air |
F-161 |
Maroon Primer |
First coat on bodies |
Air |
F-162 |
Black Color Rubbing Varnish |
Third and fourth coats on bodies. |
Air |
F-163 |
Black Touch Up |
Body Repair Work |
Air |
M-164 |
Black Brushing Color Varnish |
Touch Up |
Air |
M-165 |
Body Baking Enamel |
Touring and Roadster Bodies |
Force Dry |
F-178 |
Rear Radius Rod Black Dipping |
Radius Rods (Outside Manufacture) |
Air |
F-183 |
Sedan Sanding Surfacer |
Prime coat on wooden body parts |
Air |
F-189 |
Dash Oil Primer |
First coat on dash |
Air |
F-190 |
Dash Velvet Finishing |
Second & third coat on dash |
Air |
F-191 |
Instrument Board Satin Finish |
Enameling instrument boards |
Air |
M-195 |
Closed Body Wood Primer |
Primer coat on hard wood |
Air |
F-199 |
Gear Metal Primer |
Primer coat on chassis frames |
Oven |
F-402 |
Body Varnish Flowing |
Finish coat on bodies |
Air |
M-403 |
Floco Finishing Varnish |
Finish coat on bodies |
Force Dry |
F-404 |
Gear Varnish |
Finish coat on wheels |
Air |
Enameled Parts on 1924 Touring Cars:
The following parts were painted with M-101 and M-102 first and second coat Black Elastic Japan Paint:
Catalog # |
Description |
1330-B |
Engine Pan, Right |
1331-B |
Engine Pan, Left |
2725-C |
Steering Connecting Rod |
2771 |
Spindle Connecting Rod |
2849 |
Spare Rim Carrier |
2849-D |
Spare Rim Clamp |
2914-B |
Gas Tank Support ? Right |
2915-B |
Gas Tank Support ? Left |
3076-B |
Crankcase front bearing and spring clip |
3455 |
Hand Brake Lever |
3634-J |
Steel Dash |
3640-D |
Dash Bracket, Left |
3641-D |
Dash Bracket, Right |
3660-D |
Rear License and Tail Light Bracket |
3664 |
Front License Bracket |
3810 |
Front Spring Clip Bar |
3833 |
Rear Spring Clip |
3835 |
Rear Spring Clip Bar |
3910 |
Starting Crank Assembly |
3939 |
Outlet Connection Pipe |
3947-C |
Radiator Shell |
4050-C |
Hood |
>4052-B |
Hood Clip |
4056-C |
Hood Block, Left |
4057-C |
Hood Block, Right |
4800-C |
Left Front Fender |
4801-C |
Right Front Fender |
4802 |
Right Rear Fender |
4803 |
Left Rear Fender |
4804-M |
Rear Fender Irons |
4809 |
Front Fender Irons |
4814-C |
Running Board Shield, Right |
4815-C |
Running Board Shield, Left |
4818-B |
Running Board Brackets |
5014 |
Starting Switch |
5047-C |
Battery to Switch Cable Support |
5150-B |
Battery Bracket Assembly |
5152 |
Battery Clamps |
5159 |
Battery Box Cover and Door |
6602-BRX |
Instrument Board |
7135BRX |
Rear End Sill |
7139BRX |
Rear Seat Right Hand Side Frame |
7140BRX |
Rear Seat Left Hand Side Frame |
7141BRX |
Rear Seat Center Frame |
7143BX |
Tool Box Bottom |
7148BX |
Rear Toe Board |
7375X |
Front Heel Board |
7411-BX |
Top Rest Irons |
7837-X |
Windshield Bracket, Right |
7838-X |
Windshield Bracket, Left |
8027 |
Horn Switch Bracket |
8349BX |
Rear Heel Board, Sill Covers, Top to Windshield Clamp |
PICKUP BOX (For Roadster-Pickup)
1925
First shown in factory photos dated December 12, 1924, the
first pickup boxes did not have the ?Ford? script on the rear door.
The script was added in early 1925. Side panels had reinforcements to which the
fender irons mounted.
td>T6203
td> Rear spring assy (9-leaf, also used on Fordor sedan)
Factory List of Conversion Parts Standard Runabout to
Pickup |
Factory # |
# Reqd. |
Description |
1 |
Side panel assy, RH |
T6204 |
1 |
Side panel assy, LH |
T6206 |
1 |
Front panel assy |
T6174 |
1 |
Battery trap door |
T6157 |
2 |
Tail gate chain & bracket assy |
T6184 |
1 |
Tail gate assy |
T6171 |
2 |
Floor board retainer, long |
T6172 |
2 |
Floor board retainer, short |
T6167 |
1 |
Cross sill |
T6168 |
1 |
Rear floor board support |
T6207 |
1 |
Side panel support, rear assy |
T6175 |
1 |
Floor board, RH |
T6181 |
1 |
Floor board, LH |
T6176 |
1 |
Floor board, intermediate, RH |
T6180 |
1 |
Floor board, intermediate, LH |
T6179 |
1 |
Floor board, center |
T6173 |
1 |
Channel filler |
T6158 |
2 |
Rear fender iron |
T6182 |
2 |
Tail gate hinge bolt |
T6194 |
1 |
Tail lamp & license bracket support |
T6200 |
12 |
Floor board retainer bolt washer |
T6201 |
2 |
Rivet, panel support #1 to side panel and bracket |
T60 |
2 |
Nut, tail gate hinge bolt |
T341 |
4 |
Nut (5/16-18) Side sill to roadster sill bolt. |
|
2 |
Tail gate hinge on sill to panel support |
|
2 |
Cross sill to roadster end sill bolt |
|
2 |
Tail lamp bracket bolt. |
T757 |
2 |
Cotter pin, tail gate hinge bolt (3/32 x 7/8?) |
T925 |
4 |
Washer (5/16? i.d.) Side sill to roadster sill bolt |
|
2 |
Tail lamp bracket bolt |
T1309 |
22 |
Nut (1/4-20) Floor board retainer bolt |
T1966 |
22 |
Washer (1/4? lock) Floor board retainer bolt |
T388 |
1< |
T1971 |
4 |
Rivet, tail gate chain bracket bolt |
T4294 |
10 |
(1/4-20 x 2-1/4? carriage) Floor board retainer |
T5327 |
4 |
Bolt (5/16-18 x 1-3/4? small-head carriage) Tail lamp bracket to sill |
T5667 |
12 |
Bolt (1/4-20 X 1-3/8?) Floor board retainer, rear |
T7014 |
2 |
Bolt (5/16-18 x 3?) Tail gate hinge on sill to panel support |
T7111 |
2 |
Bolt (5/16-18 x 1-3/4?) Cross sill to roadster end sill |
T7170 |
2 |
Rivet (1/4 x 3/8?) Side sill to front panel |
|
18 |
Rivet, panel support, rear |
. |
2 |
Rivet, front panel bracket to side panel |
|
10 |
Rivet, panel support #1 to side and front >panel |
^nbsp; |
16 |
Rivet, rear floor board support to panel support |
T7254 |
4 |
Lock washer (5/16?) Side sill to roadster sill bolt |
|
2 |
Tail gate hinge on sill to panel support |
|
2 |
Cross sill to roadster end sill bolt |
|
4 |
Tail lamp bracket bolt |
T8120 |
4 |
Bolt (5/16-18 x 2-3/4?) Side sill to roadster sill |
Note that while they specify the 9-leaf spring, they neglect to add the longer spring clip (T1737,
part # 3833B).
1926-1927
Similar in style to the 1925, the side panels were embossed
to match the rear fenders which were now mounted directly to the panels. Later
(perhaps 1927) the bed was slightly altered and the front reinforcing post was
moved forward a few inches, and the embossed molding changed to match. The
vertical molding above the fender, which extended from the top molding to the
bottom (curved) molding, now only went part way down from the top molding and
did not connect to the curved molding. In addition, the floor boards (bottom of
the box) were altered to accommodate the metal cover plate over the rear frame
crossmember, new with the 1926 models.
RADIATORS
1909
?Winged? Ford script on front. Brass
?Ford? script, fastened horizontally (not on an angle as is often seen
on restored cars), on the core on most cars. Filler was machined brass, rather
low, soldered to the top. Cap had higher fins than usual type. No hole in side
for lamp hoses.
General design differs from 1911 and later types in that
there were fewer seams in the construction. Radiators were supplied by Briscoe
from the beginning of production until about 2500, McCord beginning with about
2500, and Detroit Radiator beginning about 8500. Early production (but after
2500) used screws to mount the radiator, rather than studs. ?Paris?
radiators were shown on very early (pre-2500) invoices; may have been another
brand. Some of the first (Briscoe or Paris?) radiators had separate shells,
soldered to an inner core at the top.
1909-1910
The same as 1909. Standard Ford script used in addition to
?winged.? Supplied by McCord and Detroit until about 17,000. Ford
began making radiators beginning about 12,000, and supplied all after about
17,000. It may be the Ford brand that began the standard ?Ford? script
on the upper tank. Mounted with studs instead of screws. About mid-year, 1910, a
number of modifications were made, including a higher filler neck and the
addition of the support bar across the lower part of the radiator core.
1911-1912
Higher cast filler neck style which was introduced in summer
of 1910. About January, 1911, a hole for the choke rod was added to the left
front side trim piece. Beginning in about October, 1911, the drawings indicate
holes for the rivets which now secured the filler neck to the top tank. Standard
?Ford? script without ?Made in USA.? Newer seamed
construction, typical of all later brass radiators. Radiators now all made by
Ford. The ?Ford? on the radiator core was not used after late 1910. In
mid-1912 holes were added in the sides for the gas lamp hose, with a
soldered-in-place pipe from side to side for the headlamp gas. ?Made in
USA? under ?Ford? script was added about April 16, 1912.
1912-1916
Spun-brass filler neck, riveted and soldered in place During
1914 the name plate on the back of the upper tank was eliminated and was
replaced by embossing the design in the tank wall itself. In 1915 the gas tube
for the lamps was eliminated. Filler cap had short fins. In 1915, too, the
flanges of the side wall where they overlap the frame were made shorter. The
embossing on the rear of the top tank was again changed and now indicated the
month and year the radiator was manufactured.
1917-1919
Black metal shell over new radiator. Assembly mounted on pads
on the frame. Filler neck and cap now nickel-plated. Water outlet hose increased
in length to 3-1/2? (from 2-3/4?).
1919-1923
Similar to 1917 but mounting holes larger for cushion spring
mount. Outlet hose length increased to 4? for better fit.
1924
(Introduced about July 1923)
Higher radiator. Outer shell now had a skirt at the bottom, over engine mount area.
1924-1926
Some flat tube radiators used during this period. Beginning
in late 1925 an optional brass, nickel-plated, shell was offered. During 1926
three and four-row round tube radiators were used in addition to the standard
five-row. The bottom skirt was secured to the engine mount/spring clip with a
screw. Skirts used with the nickel shell had a nickel trim strip.
1927
Four and five-row, round-tube, radiators used. Nickel-plated-shell now standard.
Radiator Filling Flange Cap T-8714>
This is the radiator cap used on the 1917 and later models.
Prior radiator caps were of polished brass in a few variations in style. The
earliest design had rather high and sharp fins. The fin design was modified in
later 1909 and by about 1913 the fins were down to the ?standard?
size.
6/27/16 |
Adopted. It was made of stamped brass, nickel-plated and polished. |
1/17/18 |
Redesigned from a brass stamping to a die-casting.?This change to take effect a
once. All caps and plugs on hand to be used up.? |
6/4/18 |
Redesigned and changed material from Die-casting alloy to ?S? brass.
Caps to be nickel plated and polished on the outside. ?This change makes the design of the
cap the same as T-1103-B (the pre-1917 brass radiator cap), we have therefore specified the same
size of stock that is being used for T-1103-B, also that these caps be made because the aluminum
in the die cast cap corrodes too easily and is to take effect at once. Die cast caps to be used
up.? |
8/20/26 |
A flange was added at the bottom of the cap where it contacts the radiator cap
gasket. |
On a related note, I found in the Ford Motor Companies legal
files correspondence indicating that the Bridgeport Brass Co. had filed suit
about this time against Ford Motor because Bridgeport Brass claimed to have a
patent on the stamped brass design of radiator cap. The court eventually threw
out the suit.
Trent Boggess
EVOLUTION OF THE BRASS RADIATORS
By Trent Boggess
As we know, the brass radiator went through three major
redesigns. The first radiator was designated as T-1100-A and was for use on the
first 2500 cars. The documentation on this radiator is rather sketchy, but what
I did find yesterday were the drawings for the first radiators?both of them?as
in two different radiators. The drawings are dated February 26 and February 29,
1908. Both appear to be identical from a front view. The difference shows up in
the side views. The February 26 drawing (which is labeled at T-1100 Type A) is
three inches thick as measured across the top of the tank. The Feb. 29 drawing
(type B) is four inches thick as measured across the tank.
Interestingly enough, very few of the parts on the assembly
drawings have factory numbers. The filler neck, cap, hood holder and rivets, the
water outlet and inlets do, but that's it. This drawing reminds me of the
discussion of the drawings of leather top straps a year ago. It shows lots of
dimensions and basically appears to tell an outside vendor what size to build
the radiator to, but leaves the details of its construction to the vendor.
The radiator was redesigned after the first 2500 cars. The
new radiator carries the factory number T-1100-B. At this point, many more parts
appear to have factory numbers on them. Also on August 13, 1909, a new part
appears. It is T-1159 and it is called the ?Name Plate on Radiator?
(yes, HFMGV has the drawing). The new radiators have the same external
dimensions as the older style, but the lower water connection has been
redesigned for the thermo-syphon system.
During the summer of 1910 the radiator went through a third
redesign, a much more extensive redesign than had occurred the previous year.
The changes in the parts included a taller filler neck (T-1102-B), a new top
tank front wall (T-1141-B) and top (T-1136-B), and new sides (T-1139-B and
T-1140-B). Most of the redesigns have their first adoption dates of about
7/23/10, but one occurred three weeks earlier. The release for the radiator
carcass (core) T-1133 indicates that the T-1126-B Radiator Support bar was
?added? on 6/30/10. It would be interesting to know how many surviving
1910's built in July 1910 actually have the support bar in their radiators.
The other parts of the T-1100-B radiator were, as stated
above, redesigned later in the summer of 1910. The final assembly drawing for
T-1100-B was not updated until October 1910. It is not clear whether the
individual parts changed all at once in October 1910 or whether it occurred
piecemeal during the months of August, September and October 1910. An important
question whose answer still alludes us is when did the front wall with the
winged Ford script change.
The T-1100-C radiator set the pattern for the remainder of
the brass era production. However, individual differences occur over time. One
of the first of these differences appears on the T-1145-B Radiator Front Side
Piece RH. On January 4, 1911 the release notes ?Added a 5/32 punched hole
for Carburetor Priming Rod on lower left hand side.? A small, but
significant change occurred in the radiator top T-1136-B. On October 10, 1911
the release indicates ?Added three 9/64? punched holes for Filler
Flange Rivets.? The releases for the filler flange tell us nothing about
the addition of the rivets so this was indeed a find.
What is more on November 28, 1911 another note states:
?Moved rivet and soldering holes for filler flange, 30 (degrees) about
center of hole for filling flange. This brings one of the rivet holes on center
line of radiator, at the rear side of filling flange, making the other two rivet
holes located symmetrically about the same center line.? The Model T had
symmetry, but not style.
In 1912 holes were added in the radiator for the gas lines.
On June 13, 1912 a note on the release for T-1139-B Radiator Left Wall reads:
?Added .5? punched hole for gas lamp hose, the hole to be located
3.5? from front edge of plate, and 11 7/8? from top end.? A few
days later on June 17, 1912 a second note reads: ?In FL#316 we were advised
of .5? holes for Gas Lamp Tubes, being punched in certain pieces. To do
away with the sharp edges of metal which would soon cut the tubes, we have
called for a 3/32? flange around the hole ? the metal being flanged in
the direction that will bring to the inside of walls, when same are assembled to
radiator. To be sure that the latest print reaches everyone concerned, date has
been corrected to read 6-17-12?.?
During 1914 the name plate on the back side of the Radiator
top tank was changed. The releases indicate that the separate plate was made
obsolete. While the releases for the rear wall of the top tank, T-1141, say
nothing about it, the drawings for this part indicate that the plate was
replaced by embossing the design of the plate in the rear wall of the tank
itself.
Steve Coniff and Larry Smith have been giving original
1915-16 radiators a close look. They have noted what the factory documentation
confirms. The flanges on the radiator side walls where it overlaps the frame
changes significantly during 1915. Prior to 1915 the flanges were .75?
long. During 1915 the flange was shorted to about half that length. I understand
that Larry has named the later style the ?Mini Skirt Style? and the
earlier ones the ?Long Skirt Style.? Here is what the releases have to
say. On May 28, 1915 the releases state ?This flange was removed because it
interferes with frame. This change is to take immediate effect. Flanges to be
clipped off, on walls we have on hand.? Then on June 26, 1915 the flange
was modified again. ?Changed height of flange which projects over side of
frame when radiator is on car, from 25/32? to 11/32? specifying rear
corner to be rounded with 3/16? radius instead of square. This changes
distance between the bottom of flange and the lower end of flange on rear edge
of wall from 1-1/32? to 19/32?.?
Another subtle change occurred in November 1915. The embossed
name plate in the rear wall of the radiator was replaced. According to the
drawing a note shows that the numbers .5? high, representing the month and
year the radiator was made, were to be stamped into the rear wall in the same
location that the name plate had been located in.
Interestingly enough, the changes in the radiator side walls
from the ?Long Skirt? to the ?Mini Skirt? styles is not
incorporated into the radiator assembly drawing until January 1916, even though
they had been made some six months earlier.
A final item. One question that frequently comes up is just
how long were the brass radiators used in production? While I would not consider
this a definitive answer, the releases indicate that the brass radiator and all
of its parts were designated ?For Repairs Only? on September 9, 1916.
RADIUS RODS
See Front or Rear Axles
REAR AXLE
(Also see Driveshaft)
1909
Initial design of 1907 used pressed-steel brake backing
plates. These were changed to cast iron in November 1908. It is not known if the
pressed-steel type ever saw production. No-rivet style. Non-tapered axles.
Babbitt axle (inner) and pinion bearings. Bronze bushings throughout the
differential gear assembly. No wires to hold differential nuts in early axles
(with the riveted-in-place ring gear). Instead they used slotted nuts which were
peened down to lock them. Filler plug was slotted screw. Brake and radius rods
had forged ends.
EARLY REAR AXLES HOUSINGS
Trent Boggess
Several new drawings under several previously unknown factory
symbol numbers will assist in our understanding of these parts. The new factory
symbol numbers are T-171 ?Rear axle housing (56 Tread) showing
construction? and T-188 ?Assembly of Rear Axle---Centre (sic) Section.? These are
both very good drawings and they shed quite a bit of light on the differences between the axles used
on the 1909-11 cars.
The first housings were T-1 (right) and T-2 (left). These are
the so-called ?no-rivet? housings. This design used the babbitt inner
axle shaft bearing. The housing for this babbitt bearing carries the factory
symbol number T-9A. It also uses the simple T-4 coupling reinforcement ring at
the mouth of the housings where the driveshaft tube is attached to the rear
axle. The drawings for T-4 show it as being literally a steel ring that was cut
in half, one for each half of the rear axle housing. It appears that this axle
was used from the start of Model T production until well into 1909.
The drawings indicate that there may have been two different
no-rivet housings. The second one used a modified version of the inner bearing
housing, T-9B, but I have not been able to determine how this housing differed
from the T-9A.
In the later spring and early summer of 1909 another design
appears. These housings carried the factory symbol numbers T-1C and T-2C. These
designs use inner roller bearings instead of a babbitt bearings. The housing for
holding the bearings is T-9C. The drawing calls for this bearing housing to be
riveted to the pressed steel axle housings with six rivets. So this is the
prototype six-rivet rear axle. I say prototype because it also is still using
the original T-4 coupling ring between the two axle housing halves and the
drawing is marked in pencil ?Not Used?Hold? and ?Obsolete
Aug-16-09? so it does not appear that this design was ever used in
production. (Note: Other Ford documentation shows that the roller inner axle
bearings were used after the first 12,000, and that the roller pinion bearing
was used after the first 18,000. Therefore, this design may have been used for
about 6,000 cars in 1910.)
The next six-rivet designs used in production were T-1D and
T-2D. The drawings for these two housings differ from the ?C? design
in that the coupling ring has been changed from a machined steel ring to a drop
forging with a skirt that extends down the side of each of the housings that is
riveted to the housings and obviously provides considerable reinforcement. The
new coupling ring carries the factory symbol number T-4C. (I think T-4B was
never produced, but would have used the odd ball 13/32 inch threads for the
driveshaft flange bolts). This is the six-rivet design that we all know so well.
Actually, there were two versions of this, the ?D? design and the
?E? design. The difference between the two is the ?D? still
uses 3/8-inch threads in the T-4C coupling ring, while T-4E uses the odd ball
13/32-inch thread. The designs for these housings are dated November 2, 1909 and
no doubt they appeared in production within a month or two after that. Also, the
inner bearing housing carries the factory symbol number T-161, not T-9C so there
was probably a difference here as well from the T-1 and 2C design. (Note:
T-161 is the roller bearing sleeve which fits inside the T-9C bracket.)
Now for the interesting part. There were several different
changes to the flanges where the two housing halves meet. The basic design
appears to have remained unchanged through September 1910. On October 5, 1910
the Ford engineers decided that the joint between the mating flanges of the
housings need to be reinforced. The first attempt at reinforcement took the form
of brazing washers on the outside of both T-1 and T-2 where the coupling bolts
attach the flanges together. Actually, they weren?t washers at the time they
were brazed on---they were discs some .063?
thick. They became washers when the holes were drilled for the coupling bolts
through both the discs and the pressed steel housings themselves. The washers
carried the factory symbol numbers T-126.
This lasted (on the drawings) about eight days. On October
13-14, 1910, the design was changed again. The T-126 washers were replaced with
T-123-B reinforcement segments. These segments are little crescent shaped
pieces of steel, 3/32? thick which were to be brazed to the outside of the
housings at the flanges. They fit the contour of the housings at the flanges and
provided a boss for the connecting bolts. The drawing indicates that ten of
these segments were to be used for the two housings.
What happened to the T123-A you ask? I?m not sure. The
drawing for T-123-A shows a Rear Axle housing flange that is in effect a full
circle reinforcement. It looks as if this would have had to be brazed to the
inside edge of the flanges where they meet. It was to be made of steel
.063? thick. The drawing for it is dated August 17, 1910, but I can find no
reference that it was ever used. I do know that the 123-B was used because those
are on the housings I was hoping to use on the 1911 torpedo.
The T-123-B reinforcements were used for about two months (at
least this is the time span between the changes in the drawings). Then on
December 21, 1910, they were declared obsolete and it appears that the T-126
washers were re-instated! However, again this was a short-lived change before
still another and more extensive change was made. In January 1911 the engineers
modified both pressed steel housings so that they would be 1/8-inch shorter. The
overlapping flange on the female half of the housing (T-2) was made 1/4-inch
longer. And the T-126 washers were declared obsolete again on January 13, 1911
and replaced with T-123-C Rear Axle Housing Reinforcement. This reinforcement is
half moon shaped, 1/8-inch thick, and four are required, two per axle housing.
They were to be brazed to the inside edges of the axle housing flanges, which
explains the shorter length of the housings. This was the final change in the
six rivet housings for the balance of the time the six-rivet axles were used in
production. The records seem to emphasize that the change in the length of the
housings came on January 13, 1911?not just in design but in production of the
housings themselves.
While going through all these drawings I ran across an
interesting experimental drawing? actually two of them. They were designated
as T-1E Exp and T-2 Exp dated October 15, 1910. What they show is that Ford was
considering going back to the NRS design rear axle. These two pieces were to be
made of malleable iron and look like 1912 clam-shell halves except that like the
NRS and 1915 and later housings they were to use straight tubes that were
inserted into the castings and riveted in place. That is, they have the outside
contour and shape of the clam-shell halves, but the construction is like that of
the NRS and 1915-25 style rear axles. For some reason they did not choose to
pursue that design at that time.
REAR AXLE HOUSINGS
Only the major parts of the rear axle assembly are listed here.
1909 (Early)
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
2501 |
1 |
Right |
2502 |
2 |
Left |
3/8? Drive shaft studs until about 12,000 (October 1909). Babbitt
inner axle bearings. Smooth brake backing plates. Pressed-steel housing with no
rivets and no reinforcements.
1910
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
2501 |
1B |
Right |
2502 |
2B |
Left |
Similar to 1909. Reinforced brake backing plates. Slotted filler plug.
Six-rivet style. Non-tapered axles. Roller inner axle (after
12,000, October 1909) and pinion (after 18,000, March 1910 ) bearings. Later
1910 housings had reinforcing washers around the flange bolt holes, and still
later, a ring brazed around center section. By 1911 two such rings were used,
one on each half, inside the housing, making the center seam much thicker.
Pinion bearing housing drilled for 3/8? studs. Brake backing plates changed
from smooth to those with reinforcing ribs in drawing dated November 12, 1909.
1910-1911
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
2501 |
1B |
Right |
2502 |
2B |
Left |
The brake backing plate was again revised in a
drawing dated October 18, 1910. The 1910 style continued until July 13, 1911
when new ?1912? rear axle (12-rivet, clamshell design with cast center
section) appeared. Tapered axle shafts standard after early 1911 and appeared
before the housing change in July. New housing used 13/32? studs for the driveshaft
pinion bearing spool. Slotted filler plug.
1911-1912
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
2501-1/2 |
1E |
Right |
2502-1/2 |
2E |
Left |
1912
Same as late 1911 ?1912? axle. The newer ?1913? axle appeared later in the year,
perhaps as early as September (date unknown) but definitely by November. Slotted filler plug.
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
2501B |
1E |
Right (Same as late 1911) |
2502B |
2E |
Left |
Note: The roller bearing sleeves used in the earlier
axles differed from the later in that the locating dimple was about 3/4-inch from
the end, while the later one had the dimple at about 1/2-inch. Whether both types
were used, or just when the change was made is not certain, but is believed to
have been in late 1911 or 1912.
1913-1914
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
2501D |
2835B |
Right |
2502D |
2836B |
Left |
Introduced in about October 1912. Larger cast center section,
similar in shape to later types, but with the axle tubes flared and riveted to
the center section. In 1914 the forged-end radius rods were replaced with the
less expensive split-end type. These were seamless and interchangeable from side
to side. Brake shoes modified to use two springs instead of one; the second
spring being across the mounting bolt side of the brake shoe. Hexagon filler
plug now standard.
1915-1919
New ?standard? design adopted about March 1915.
Tubular axle housings inserted into center section. Early 1915 brake backing
plates did not have reinforcing ribs (added in October 1915). Oil filler hole
just below centerline.
1915-1916
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
2501E |
2835C |
Right |
2502E |
2836C |
Left |
1917-1919
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
2501 |
2835C |
Right |
2502 |
2836C |
Left |
Same as 1916 except for part number change.
1919-1921
Similar to 1918 but now machined for a gasket between the two
halves. Oil filler now 1-3/4? below the centerline. Driveshaft modified in 1920
to use new forged bearing sleeve. Outer oil seal cups larger in diameter due to
machining change in the axle tubes. 4-1 gears became available in July 1919. At
first these were a 48-tooth ring and a 12-tooth pinion but by January 1920 the
10-tooth pinion which could be used with the standard ring gear replaced the
first type.
1919
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
2501 |
7635 |
Right |
2502 |
7636 |
Left |
1920-1923
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
2501 |
7635C |
Right (Same as 1919) |
2502 |
7636C |
Left |
1923-1925
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
2501 |
7635D |
Right |
2502 |
7636D |
Left |
Beginning about 1922 the rear radius rods were of seamed
construction. Lefts and rights were required so that the seam will be down for
drainage.
1926-1927
Identical to 1925 except for larger brake backing plates. An
oil seal was added at the outer axle bearings. Oil plug changed to type with
recessed square hole instead of hex head during late 1926.
At least four brake backing plates were used. Some had
riveted-on brake shoe retaining clips. Others had clips that were pressed from
the backing plate, with and without a spot-welded cover over the pressed-in area
on the outside surface. The earliest type (with the pressed clips) came with
either smooth backing plates or with an embossed ?C? shaped molding
and an oil vent on the bottom half. The riveted type is believed to have
appeared in calendar 1926, but those noted had the embossed bottom area and used
the old hex-head filler screw.
During 1926 the radius rods were modified to eliminate the
rearward nut at the universal joint. The nut was replaced with a forged-in
collar which located the radius rod on the U-joint housing.
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
2501B |
7635B |
Right |
2502B |
7636B |
Left |
REAR AXLE PARTS
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
AXLE HOUSING GASKET (Paper, .009?) |
1919-1927 |
2504 |
139 |
(None used before 1919.) |
REAR AXLE SHAFTS 1909-1910 |
2503 |
48 |
Non-tapered |
Axle gear held with small woodruff key and a pin. |
1910-1911 |
2505A |
48B |
Non-tapered |
Axle gear held with large woodruff key and a collar. |
1911-1917 |
2505D |
2818 |
Tapered |
Axle gear held with large key and collar (2 pieces).
The diameter of the axle shaft where the roller bearings fit
is 1.062 - 1.063?. The length is 31-3/64 ? 31-5/64?. The taper is
2-3/4? long and ground portion where the outer bearing fits is 5-1/4?
and the ground area where the inner bearing and the gear are is 6-1/4?
long. |
1917-1927 |
2505 |
2828 |
Tapered |
Same as 1916 except for part number. |
THRUST WASHER
(Fiber, between axle shafts) |
1909-1927 |
2506 |
39 |
1-1/32? diameter |
AXLE BEARINGS |
1909 |
2507 |
51 |
Babbitt inner bearings. |
2508 |
97 |
Hyatt roller outer bearings |
1910-1920 |
2508 |
97 |
Hyatt roller (Inner and outer) |
1920-1927 |
2508 |
253 |
Hyatt roller (factory number change) |
AXLE BEARING SLEEVES |
1909-1911 |
2509 |
170 |
Right * |
2509B |
161 |
Left |
* Outer only in 1909. Locating dimple further from the end than later
design. |
1911-1927 |
2509 |
170 |
Right (Dimple nearer the end) |
2509B |
161 |
Left |
REAR AXLE SEAL CAPS |
1909-1919 |
2510 |
56 |
2-13/32? i.d. |
(Initial design caps were brass but were changed to pressed
steel in a drawing dated March 11, 1909.) |
1917-1927 |
2510-1/2 |
56B |
2-7/16? i.d. |
DIFFERENTIAL GEAR CASE |
1909 (Early) |
----- |
10 |
Left (For riveted ring gear) |
----- |
11 |
Right |
1909-1911 |
2512 |
10B |
Left (9/16? spider arms) |
2513 |
11B |
Right |
Uses 2517 axle gear bushings. |
1911-1913 |
2512B |
10C |
Left |
2513B |
11C |
Right |
5/8? spider arms, bushing for axle gears. |
1913-1915 |
2512C |
10D |
Left |
2513C |
11D |
Right |
>5/8? spider arms, no bushing. Uses 2514 stud. |
1915-1927 |
2512C |
84 |
Left, Final design. |
2513C |
81 |
Right, uses 2514B stud. |
DIFFERENTIAL GEAR CASE STUD |
1909-1915 |
2514 |
52 |
3/8 x 2-3/4? |
1915-1920 |
2514B |
52B or 2865 |
3/8 x 2-1/4? |
1921-1927 |
2414C |
52C |
Now a cap screw. |
DIFFERENTIAL GEAR CASE BUSHING |
1909-1913 |
2517 |
19 |
Bronze 1-9/16? I.D., 1-13/16? O.D. |
RING GEAR (40 tooth) |
1909 |
----- |
12 |
Riveted to gear case. |
1909-1927 |
2518 |
12B |
Threaded holes |
DIFFERENTIAL GEAR (Axle gear, 24 teeth)
|
1909-1911 |
2520 |
13 |
Drilled for pin #2522 |
1911-1927 |
2520B |
13B |
For key and collars. |
DIFFERENTIAL GEAR THRUST WASHER |
1909-1914 |
2523 |
32 |
3-1/16? dia. Fiber. |
DIFFERENTIAL PINION GEAR (3 used) |
1909 |
2524 |
14 |
1909-1911 |
2524 |
14B |
9/16? bushing. |
1911-1914 |
2524B |
14C |
5/8? bushing. |
1914-1927 |
2524C |
14D |
No bushing. |
DIFFERENTIAL GEAR SPIDER |
1909 |
2526 |
15 |
1909-1911 |
2526 |
15B |
9/16? arms, axle bushing. |
1911-1914 |
2526B |
15C |
5/8? arms, axle bushing. |
1914-1927 |
2526B |
15D |
5/8? arms, no bushing. |
DIFFERENTIAL GEAR SPIDER BUSHING |
1909-1914 |
2527 |
18 |
1-1/16? brass. |
DIFFERENTIAL THRUST BEARING (2 used) |
1909-1915 |
2528 |
30 |
Bronze |
1915-1927 |
2528 |
30 |
Babbitt |
DIFFERENTIAL THRUST BEARING WASHER
(4 used) |
1909-1927 |
2529 |
31 |
Steel, 3-3/4? diameter. |
DIFFERENTIAL THRUST WASHER PIN |
1909-1916 |
2530 |
17 |
13/32? long. |
2531 |
37 |
7/32? long. |
1917-1927 |
2531B |
7640 |
Dual diameter pin, larger of which fits into housings. |
DIFFERENTIAL OIL DRAIN PLUG |
19O9-1912 |
2532 |
817 |
Screwdriver slot. |
1913-1926 |
2532 |
817 |
3/4? x 24 Hex head. |
1925-1927 (Late> |
2532B |
2824 |
1/2? Recessed square socket pipe plug. |
(The change to the pipe-plug was noted in a release dated
late 1925 but many of the large-drum ('26-27) housings have the 15/16? hex
screw.) |
DRIVESHAFT HOUSING (Also see
Driveshaft) |
1909-1910 |
2533 |
153 |
Babbitt pinion bearing |
1910 |
2582 |
74C |
Drilled for 3/8? studs. Used beginning at 18,000 |
1911-1914 |
2582 |
153D |
Drilled for 13/32? studs. |
1914-1920 |
2582 |
153D |
?One-piece? type. |
1920-1927 |
2582 |
153D |
Flange modified for new pinion bearing. |
AXLE HOUSING EVOLUTION, 1907-1911
Date |
Factory # |
Comments |
10/24/07 |
1A |
Adopted. Pressed steel |
11/17/08 |
1C |
Adopted. Pressed steel |
No date |
1D |
Adopted. Pressed steel |
04/20/09 |
1D |
T9B driveshaft
reinforcement ring
changed to T9C which is heavier. T9B used on first 6000 cars. |
07/14/09 |
1B |
Adopted. Pressed steel |
08/04/09 |
1D |
Changed T9B to have two 5/8? holes instead of one |
08/04/09 |
1D |
T9C changed to T9D, used after 15,000.
T9D is the forged reinforcement around the driveshaft mounting area on the axle
housings. |
08/16/09 |
1C |
Obsoleted |
09/10/09 |
1D |
Changed oil hole from 5/16 to 7/16? |
09/15/09 |
1B |
Lower oil hole in T9B eliminated. Upper hole changed from 5/16 to 7/16? |
09/17/09 |
1D |
Coupling ring T4B in place |
01/11/10 |
1B |
Obsoleted |
03/24/10 |
1D |
T9D changed to T9E |
04/22/10 |
1E |
Adopted (1911 design). Same as 1D except for 13/32-18 studs instead of 3/8-24 |
04/25/10 |
1E |
Studs changed from 13/32-18 to 13/32-16 |
10/05/10 |
1D |
T126 washer used at flanges. T126 is #13 (.09375?) steel |
10/13/10 |
1D |
T123 flange replaces T126 washers |
10/14/10 |
1E |
T123 flange replaces T126 washers. T123 was #16 (.065?) sheet steel. |
11/05/10 |
1G |
Adopted |
12/21/10 |
1D |
Two T123B flanges replace T123. T123B was #13 (.09375?) steel |
01/07/11 |
T123C |
(#11, .125? Steel) replaces T123B. |
02/11/11 |
1G |
Changed from 6 to 12 rivets |
10/10/11 |
1E |
Obsoleted |
10/24/11 |
1G |
Obsoleted |
The above relates to the early ?6-rivet? pressed
steel axle housings. Apparently more than one design was being used at any given
time if the dates are any indication.
T1 is the male housing. T2 is the female half on which similar modifications were made.
RUNNING BOARDS
1909 (Early production)
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
----- |
1410 |
R/H (Linoleum covered) |
----- |
1411 |
L/H |
Note: This board was made up of T1412 Rubber
Matting; T1421, T1422, T1423, T1425, T1486, T1487 and T1488 Brass Trim pieces.
(Factory numbers.) |
1909-1910 (First 15,000 cars, January 1910)
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
2941 |
1410B |
R/H and L/H |
Steel with uninterrupted ribs running length-wise. No
Script. Painted body color. |
1910
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
2941 |
1410C |
R/H and L/H |
Steel with interrupted ribs running lengthwise, beginning
with 15,000 in January 1910. Painted body color. |
1911-1912
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
4812 |
2530 |
R/H Blue |
4813 |
2531 |
L/H |
Steel with typical diamond pattern. Ford script ran
lengthwise. ?Made in USA? added in later production 1912. Painted
body color. |
1911
Torpedo Runabout
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
4846 |
2551 |
R/H Blue |
4847 |
2552 |
L/H |
1913-1921
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
4812 |
5418 |
R/H & L/H ?Ford? script now ran across the board. |
1913 to 1925 running boards were steel, similar to 1912 but
script now ran across the width. Earlier boards had much sharper diamonds that
later, apparently due to wear on the dies that pressed them. There were minor
variations in the ?Ford? script, the placement of holes, etc. during
the years but the basic boards were identical. Painted black after 1912. |
1918-1925
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
TRUCK |
1129 |
TT5418 |
R/H and L/H |
P/N changed to 4830 in 1920. |
4830 |
TT5418 |
R/H and L/H |
1922-1925
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
4812 |
5418 |
R/H |
4813 |
5480 |
L/H |
Same as earlier boards but drilled differently. |
1925-1927
TRUCK
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
4830B |
TT5418 |
R/H. (21-29/32? long) |
4830C |
TT5480 |
L/H |
1926-1927
Part # |
Factory # |
Description |
4813B |
5418B |
R/H and L/H |
Wider board with much smaller diamonds. Ford script now much
smaller and was imprinted along the outer edges of the boards. |
|